Which Printer Is Actually the Best? A Total Cost Guide to Kodak Photo Paper, Bambu 3D Printers, and MJF

Short answer: there isn't one 'best' printer

Every few weeks, someone asks me what the best printer is. It sounds like a product recommendation. It's actually a budget question. I'm a procurement manager who's spent seven years tracking print and supply costs, from photo paper to industrial 3D printing. I've learned that the 'best' machine depends on what you're producing, how often, and what happens when a print fails. The question isn't 'which printer is best.' The question is, what is the total cost of the output that actually makes it out of the machine?

Start with the output, not the machine

I split printing decisions into three scenarios:

• You need customer-facing print on paper: photos, labels, brochures, and instant prints.
• You need physical parts in small batches: prototypes, jigs, custom enclosures.
• You need functional parts at production volume.

These three scenarios have different cost drivers. Comparing them by purchase price is like comparing a toaster and a CNC machine based on weight. Here's how each one works in practice.

Scenario 1: Kodak photo printer paper and glossy instant prints

If your output is a photo or a labeled product, the printer is only half the story. The media is where the real cost lives. People search for 'kodak photo printer paper' and 'kodak instant print printing glossy' because they want a specific finish and a specific size. That's not a commodity purchase.

Office copy paper is commonly 75 to 90 gsm. Photo paper is heavier, usually 150 gsm and up, because it needs a coating that keeps ink from soaking in and smearing. The coating affects color, drying time, and how the print handles fingerprints. If you use a random 'photo' paper that isn't aligned with your printer's profile, you're not saving money. You're adding risk.

We tested a third-party glossy paper once because the invoice was 30% lower. The first batch looked okay. By batch three, colors were shifting and the surface wasn't drying evenly. We reprinted the whole run. When I calculated the cost per completed sheet, including operator time and wasted media, the 'cheap' paper was more expensive than the Kodak paper we normally use. I still wince when I remember that batch.

To be fair, some third-party papers work perfectly fine. But the way to judge them is the same: cost per successful print, color consistency, and how much time you spend adjusting settings. If you're printing anything brand-critical, the Pantone Color Matching System guidelines are a useful reference: delta E under 2 is commonly cited as the tolerance for brand-critical color. A paper change alone can push you beyond that threshold. That's why I check the paper spec before I check the promotion.

What is the best 3d printer for beginners?

This is one of the most common searches from teams adding a desktop 3D printer for the first time. When someone types 'what is the best 3d printer for beginners,' they could mean easiest to use, cheapest to feed, or most likely to still work after six months. Those are different answers. 'Best' for one person is overkill for another.

For most beginners, I suggest an enclosed FDM printer with automatic bed leveling and a strong support community. That combination reduces the two biggest beginner costs: bad first layers and hours of troubleshooting. Resin printers have their place, but for a general-purpose start, FDM is easier to live with.

If you're waiting for a 'bambu 3d printer black friday' deal, the same logic applies. A bundle with a filament system and spare parts looks expensive at first, but if you know you'll need those extras, it's often a better total cost than buying the bare printer and adding pieces later. The danger is buying a discounted machine because it's discounted, and then discovering you didn't budget for filament, build plates, ventilation, or the time it takes to learn the machine. Even after we approved our own Bambu bundle, I kept second-guessing. What if a cheaper machine would have been enough? I didn't relax until we ran 20 successful prints without a failed part.

Here's the formula I use for 3D printing:

cost per successful part = (machine cost + shipping + consumables + maintenance + failed parts + labor) ÷ number of parts that actually work

When you write it that way, a $250 printer that needs constant attention can be more expensive than a $700 printer that works reliably. The surprise isn't the machine price. It's how much time a first printer eats before it produces something useful.

And if you're not sure you'll print regularly, order parts from a service bureau first. A colleague and I once spent two weekends trying to dial in a cheap 3D printer to print a bracket we could have ordered for about $14. We learned a lot. From a budget view, it was the most expensive bracket we never made.

Scenario 3: When an MJF printer is on your list

Now we get to the capital equipment end of the conversation. MJF stands for Multi Jet Fusion, an industrial powder-based 3D printing process. It produces nylon parts with consistent mechanical properties, which is why it shows up in production work for brackets, ducts, housings, and end-use parts. If you search for 'mjf printer,' you may actually be asking two different questions: should I buy a 3D printer, or should I buy parts made by one?

Most companies I've worked with should not buy an MJF system on their first pass. The machine is the visible cost, but the total cost includes powder, maintenance, post-processing, venting, and skilled operators. If your demand comes in spikes, a service bureau will usually be cheaper: you pay a higher per-part price, but you avoid a fixed asset that sits idle between jobs.

That said, if you have a steady monthly volume and the parts are critical to your production, an in-house system can change the math. I've seen a team justify a system after calculating cost per part across a two-year horizon. I've also seen a team buy one after one project and let it sit for weeks. The difference was volume, not hype.

My advice is to quote both options. Get a service bureau quote for your actual part, then run a total cost model for buying. Don't compare hourly rates; compare cost per delivered part, including your quality control time. That's what makes the MJF decision clear.

How to tell which scenario you're in

If you're still not sure, answer these three questions:

1. What is the output? If it's something you can put in a frame or stick on a package, you're in photo paper territory. If it's something you'll hold in your hand and assemble, you're in 3D printing territory. If it has to hold up under load or heat, MJF is in play.
2. How often do you need it? If it's a project that runs for two weeks each quarter, outsource it. If it's every day, ownership is easier to justify.
3. What does a failed print cost? For photo prints, it's paper and re-do time. For 3D printing, it's plastic plus hours. For MJF, it's a full build job. Count that before you compare sticker prices.

That's the whole framework: buy based on what a successful output costs, not what the machine costs in a cart. The best printer is the one that makes your budget look sane at the end of the year. Usually, that's also the one that feels the least glamorous to describe.

The last word

There isn't a single answer to 'what's the best printer?' There is a single useful question: what is the total cost of the output I need? Once you answer that, the product list narrows fast. A Kodak photo printer with the right paper is a tool. A desktop 3D printer is a tool. An MJF system is a tool. The trick is matching the tool to the volume, the finish, and the failure cost—not just the marketing message.